Between history and legend, Andrey Remnev has inspired the 2018 Vivetta Spring-Summer collection.
Vivetta Ponti transfers his art onto the catwalk: his ancient, melancholic strokes, yet graphical and modern, his colours and the delicate and dream-like women, the main characters of his paintings.
These noble, hypnotic ladies, suspended in a surreal atmosphere, emphasise his passion for detail and, more specifically, for embroidery. Vivetta’s dresses, just like canvases, portray a marvellous, enchanted universe, with a wealth of magical elements. A desecrating tribute to both the world of contemporary art and the Russian artist.
A collage of refined hand-made decorations. Sophisticated sequin macramé and evanescent profiles. Dazzling Swarovski and pearl appliques. Precious brocades as well as bright, multi-coloured Haute Couture duchesses.
Remnev’s favourite motifs are directly transferred onto the dresses. Irises bloom on the fabrics, crossed by the featherweight flights of dragonflies, butterflies and swallows. In addition to these, there are also elements taken from the underwater and woodland world. In the eternal surreal interplay of transformism, nature overcomes the real dimension: fantastic animals such as fish and winged creatures blossom in splendid flowers.
Skirts that are as light as clouds and volumes emphasised by puffy crinolines. Cascades of raw edged tulle. Transparencies and micromesh lace. The crystal-studded organza is gradually blurred with delicate, lightweight feathers. The lightness of these fabrics is contrasted with those of a sturdier nature. The bustier dress is rather striking with its exaggerated volumes in denim which is treated, woven and dyed by hand.
The common thread linking these two inspirational worlds, which are only apparently poles apart, is actually jeans, that co-exist in this collection. Revisited, faded and embroidered denim with bands of coloured feathers is used also for the footwear: for a true total look. There is a clear reference to a typically-90s POP underground style in terms of fit, volumes and prints. Oversized garments and hyper-feminine outfits. Organza, fil coupé brocade and jacquard cotton that recall romantic tapestries.
The little tassels that enrich them have also been taken from the world of furnishing and design.
Maxi T-shirts are worn over 1960-style mini-dresses adorned with minute, sparkling sequins. Flaming, acid-coloured embroideries with sporty elements also for dresses in silk satin. The emerald green dress, with a deep side split, matching feather train and boa is a real key piece.
The cut and paste effect is ensured by the styling: a top recalling a baseball T-shirt, with contrasting lace on its sleeves and a red carpet-worthy skirt. Also the black dress, with its decorated white satin bodice, that in terms of cut and silhouette perfectly complies with the design codes of this mood, has been created by wearing a short T-shirt over a tulle skirt. The elements of decor which Remnev was so fond of, can be seen once again in the prints, on shirts and short dresses, that have been re-elaborated according to a decidedly more contemporary taste.
The range of colours is amazing. The light, dusty hues of the purest dawns from soft blue to baby pink, clash with the unique fluo colours and plenty of gold, a clear reference to the precious pigments blended by hand and used by the artist himself, as in the past.
Accessories: high cuissard boots and bow mules, either glittered or in bright pastel colours. Delicate “profiled” ballerina shoes in clashing hues.